Greetings from Croatia 626 GE 2.5 V6

[JokeCro]

So does this sensor trigger low speed mode directly?

The needle still seems a bit too much to the right, at least from my experience with a 4-cylinder engine the normal temperature is just veeery little to the right side: gallery2.php?g2_itemId=7431
Maybe someone with a V6 engine can confirm...

Otherwise it looks like the fan is still fighting a bad cooling circuit to me(?)

If the fan now turns on much earlier, it means that this sensor is having an effect.

Yes, the needle is a little to the right, because I waited for the moment when the fan would turn on while the car was stationary to take an accurate photo. When I drive on the open road, the needle is in the middle

I managed to find a photo from the ride, the pointer is in the middle

[JokeCro]

Is it possible there is some air left in the cooling system?

[Kampfkuchen]

If it is the sensor, it has to be in a different normal position as before the change. If this isn't the case, I would say: it is not the sensor.

My temperature was always in the middle. A friend has his middle point a bit to the right. But my thermostat was almost new, his wasn't.

My needle never really moved to the right, when the fan starts spinning. But I had a definatelly working low speed

[JokeCro]

If it is the sensor, it has to be in a different normal position as before the change. If this isn't the case, I would say: it is not the sensor.

My temperature was always in the middle. A friend has his middle point a bit to the right. But my thermostat was almost new, his wasn't.

My needle never really moved to the right, when the fan starts spinning. But I had a definatelly working low speed

I'm out of ideas what to do with the first gear. All relays are ok, fuse too, both sensors changed, fans are working, is there anything else related to the first gear?

[Kampfkuchen]

I would remove Relay no 2 and 3, then go into diagnostics mode and push the throttle pedal (without turning engine on) -> Fan starts immediatelly. If not, your low speed has a problem. If it does, then it is not a low-speed problem.
Remember: The fact that the fan is spinning does not tell you it is okay. It has two speeds and the second comes at higher temperatures. Removing No2 and No3 disable the high-speed.

I recommend to check where the chain is broken, before changing anything. Is there voltage in the plug of the relay on the input-contact? Is there voltage on the plug at the fan? Something like this.

Do you have a multimeter? If not, even a 10-15€ DMM does a great job in such situations.

I would do it like this:
1. remove the relays and turn on the ignition and measure every contact in the fuse-holder of the three fan-relays. No1, No2 and No3 has to have one 12V active pins
2. go into diagnostic mode as mentioned before and push down the throttle pedal -> Fan will immediatelly start! Remove No 2 and 3, Fan should run at lower speed
3. remove the relays and measure: now No1 and No2 has to have two active 12V contacts.
4. Measure the resistance of the two coils of the fan. Two contacts should have something like 1 Ohms and the other beneath this.

If the number fails, your problem could be:
1. voltage source from the fuse to the relays
2. at least the low speed has a problem
3. voltage source from the battery to the relays
4. fan failed

[JokeCro]

I would remove Relay no 2 and 3, then go into diagnostics mode and push the throttle pedal (without turning engine on) -> Fan starts immediatelly. If not, your low speed has a problem. If it does, then it is not a low-speed problem.
Remember: The fact that the fan is spinning does not tell you it is okay. It has two speeds and the second comes at higher temperatures. Removing No2 and No3 disable the high-speed.

I recommend to check where the chain is broken, before changing anything. Is there voltage in the plug of the relay on the input-contact? Is there voltage on the plug at the fan? Something like this.

Do you have a multimeter? If not, even a 10-15€ DMM does a great job in such situations.

I would do it like this:
1. remove the relays and turn on the ignition and measure every contact in the fuse-holder of the three fan-relays. No1, No2 and No3 has to have one 12V active pins
2. go into diagnostic mode as mentioned before and push down the throttle pedal -> Fan will immediatelly start! Remove No 2 and 3, Fan should run at lower speed
3. remove the relays and measure: now No1 and No2 has to have two active 12V contacts.
4. Measure the resistance of the two coils of the fan. Two contacts should have something like 1 Ohms and the other beneath this.

If the number fails, your problem could be:
1. voltage source from the fuse to the relays
2. at least the low speed has a problem
3. voltage source from the battery to the relays
4. fan failed

I can say that I have never done things in diagnostic mode

[Kampfkuchen]

I wrote here how to do this. It is very easy, just put a wire between TEN and GND in the diagnostic plug / OBD plug. It's near the fuse box left to the engine. You don't need the LED to read the error codes, because this is not necessary in this case. If you put the jumper wire between TEN and GND you are immeditally in diagnostic mode. If you open the throttle (or push down the throttle pedal) the fan start spinning. This is for testing the fan and the throttle potentiometer.

[commander_keen]

Although the pin naming should be provided within the cap of the diagnostic plug, you can also see the structure here in the first posting: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=6052

Although the video shows a 626 GF, it's basically the same with the GE: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKRCMH8nLN8
Image oft he plug with open cap: https://www.mazda-forum.info/attachment ... jpg.11854/

As Kampfkuchen said, you can ignore all the stuff with error codes and LEDs. Just find a paper clip or a wire, connect TEN to GND, turn on ignition without engine start and hit the gas pedal.